If you dress well, you can get away with all magnitude of sin or silliness (though in this case, the misbehaving takes the form of unabashed dance moves and copious consumption of Dark and Stormys). This is not to say the more elegant crowd doesn’t behave indecorously. Luckily, the staff know more than one perfect cocktail to quench your thirst, including a house favorite: the Snowball in Hell.
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The atmosphere is hot when the dress code requires men in blazers and long pants, sweat is inevitable. The dancing begins after dinner when the tables are cleared and the DJ spins “Play that Funky Music White Boy”-an apt choice. The terrace of the Sky Bar is adorned with pink and white cabana stripes offset by hunter green lacquer woodwork.
Walking down Bannisters Wharf on a Saturday night and arriving at the Cooke House, you have three options: the Boom Boom Room, the downstairs dance club Midway, the ground- and second-floor levels where sailors toast old salts and Sky Bar, the upstairs porch where the fine dining has a dress code and the after-dinner dancing is even finer. Barth, where they work during the winter season. This time of year offers an added enticement: Summer Sushi, which began over Memorial Day weekend, when sushi chefs arrived in Newport from St. The revelry is accommodating to all generations, as is the food.
You know the staff is legendary when they served your parents at your age, and likely served your grandparents along the way. The food-especially the raw bar-is divine, and the service impeccable. The historic space was built by the Newport sea captain Clarke Cooke in the 1780s and was a candy shop (hence its nickname among locals: “The Candy Store”), before David Ray established the restaurant in the 1970s. Fitting for a town where many summer residents live in the rambling cottages built by their ancestors of the Gilded Age and seasonal visitors are privy to tours of lavish Vanderbilt mansions dotting Bellevue Avenue, the Clarke Cooke House feels preserved in time.
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